Exploring Rovaniemi in Finnish Lapland

Rovianiemi is the capital of Finnish Lapland. This city of approximately 60,000 residents is known as the official home of Santa Claus and serves as a jumping-off point for many of the region’s excursions. If you’re looking for a place to shop for winter gear, browse Lappish souvenirs, relax at a trendy bar or cafe, or simply stay in one place while day-trip providers organize your travel details, this is the place. 

The city is quite walkable and pedestrian-friendly. I visited during the dead of winter, when there are only 3 hours of daylight and 21 hours of darkness. Whenever I was approaching a snowed-over crosswalk, cars and trucks would stop and wave me on even if I hadn’t yet pressed the crosswalk signal. Families tugged kids around in sleds, and the paths were well lit. 

Accommodation 

Hotels in the city center book up quickly in the winter season. I ended up booking a small, single room at Guesthouse Borealis, a cute bed and breakfast slightly west of town but near the railway and bus stations. There wasn’t much available under 100€ per night when I was looking a few weeks before my trip, except shared bunk rooms in dormitory-style hostels. 

The family resorts like Santa Claus Village are located further from town and tend to be pricey. Other properties are more remote and have rooms with glass walls or ceilings for better chances of viewing the northern lights away from the city’s light pollution. These are also on the high-end, often have perks such as private saunas, and should be booked well ahead of time. I  opted for the city so I could easily get to the main sights, shop, and catch the ski bus onward to Pyhätunturi.  Rovaniemi city is also a convenient pick up point for many excursions such as dog sledding, reindeer farm visits, and snowmobiling.

Rovaniemi Culture Pass 

With the Culture Pass, you can pay for three main Rovaniemi attractions on one ticket: Arktikum, Pilke Museum, and Korundi House of Culture. All are within walking distance of the city center, and you can easily see them all in one day. The pass was valid for seven days from the first use as of Jan 2022. I most enjoyed the Arktikum Science Centre & Museum which is focused on life in the Arctic. Inside is a small theater where you can watch a six-minute simulation of the northern lights. 

The Science Centre Pilke is more for kids under 5, so I was in and out quickly. I wouldn’t recommend it with other older kids, as you’ll need to go up two big flights of stairs, check in, and then down two big flights of stairs. Most of the exhibits are meant for interactive play for younger kids; I saw several happy toddlers stacking boxes and climbing on board the tractors. 

Korundi House of Culture had some interesting modern art exhibits, mostly sculpture and abstract. All of these attractions have nice gift shops where you can buy souvenirs. I bought my culture pass online ahead of time, which seemed to cause more confusion than simply buying it for the same price on site at one of the three locations. Make sure you get a yellow card that you can use to go back during the seven-day validity period. 

Shopping 

Rovaniemi has a quaint central square lined with shops as well as large indoor shopping centers. Revontulli and Rinteenkulma are located near the town center and connected by a pedestrian walkway. If you need winter gear or clothing, there are options for men, women, and children’s sizes, although I did not see much plus-size clothing.  Supermarkets are on the lower levels if you are self-catering and need to stock up on supplies or snacks. 

Finland is well-known for its thrifting culture, and I enjoyed browsing second-hand clothes near Lordi’s Square at SMUK. Inside Rinteenkulma shopping mall, my favorite shop was Taiga Koru jewelry where I was able to pick up some silver pieces with Lappish designs. I browsed the site ahead of time and chose my favorites, otherwise I totally would have blown my budget! 

Eating 

Rovaniemi has a number of international and Finnish restaurants. Amusingly, a Saigon noodle restaurant is located right next to Rang Mahal Indian restaurant. Having lived in Vietnam and India, it was fun to see those cuisines come from the tropics and the desert up to the Arctic Circle. For cheap eats, you can find bakeries, pizzaries, and kebab shops. I had lunch at the chic Cafe & Bar 21, a delicious salmon soup alongside a seasonal cocktail. Other patrons were ordering these huge waffles topped with salad and chicken or pulled pork, and the cafe also had a selection of pastries and gelato. All the tables were full; you might want to make a reservation. I also enjoyed the family-style restaurant Rosso, near Nordic Unique Travels office, where I got to try pizza with reindeer meat.

Covid Info 

At the time of my visit in December 2021, all adults were required to wear masks while walking around the city. Vaccine confirmation was needed to enter restaurants, bars, and museums. I used the Korean COOV app alongside a photo ID since I don’t have the EU vaccine passport. The city has signs up everywhere to remind people to wear masks and practice good hygiene. The most amusing one is “Find your inner Finn – keep social distance.” I felt quite safe walking around and people were very friendly when checking my vaccine information. Covid testing centers were set up in various places, including a 9Lives testing center (closed 4pm) in Lordi’s Square. Travelers could use the FinnEntry app to find places to do Covid tests for travel. I wasn’t able to register with my Korean phone number, but I was able to write to FinnEntry customer service and get the information I needed.