Visiting the DMZ in Goseong, South Korea

The northeast coast of South Korea offers access to the Goseong Unification Observatory Tower and the well-curated DMZ Museum. Until visiting, I didn’t know how big DMZ tourism is for domestic tourists within Korea. I was surprised at how much of a destination these sites are, and I’m definitely interested in making my way along the northern border to see as many other DMZ tourism sites as possible. 

Planning Your Trip to the Goseong DMZ 

You’ll need a personal vehicle to register and get through the checkpoint. There are sometimes buses, although I didn’t see them anywhere and nothing is listed in Naver Maps public transport details. These travelers from Open Road Before Me were able to hitch a ride with another family entering the zone. However, in Covid times with a 4-person maximum per travel group, this would be tough. Bring your own vehicle or rent a car to get in. Give yourself at least 3 to 4 hours in order to explore the observatory, coastal area, and museums. You’ll need to exit through the security checkpoint at the civilian control line before 5:30pm. 

Getting the Access Permit 

You can drive straight up to the control line, however you’ll be turned around to apply for a permit if you don’t have one yet. Military personnel armed with laminated explanation sheets will nicely tell you to “turn around or go home.” 

Save yourself some time by stopping at the certification center along the way. Location pinned below. 

Unification Tower (Civilian Control Line Oe) Certification Center, 강원 고성군 현내면 금강산로 495, http://naver.me/GpNzQYSG

I was expecting a bureaucratic office, but this place is a lively rest stop, full of kitschy souvenirs and a typical tourist cafe. After filling in a form with my car license plate number and ID number, and paying a few dollars in parking fees and tickets, I was ready to go. This place had the best collection of inexpensive sunglasses I’d seen in Korea, so I picked up a few pairs as well as some 20,000 won ($18) binoculars. 

Driving to the Unification Tower Parking Lot

When you turn in your access permit, the guards at the check post will give you a brightly colored paper to keep on your dashboard. They will also guide you through a list of do’s and don’ts for your time across the line. You are not supposed to stop on the road for any reason, until you reach the parking lot of the tower or the museum. You’ll drive past wild beaches, protected by high barbed-wire fences. When you reach the parking lot, you’ll find a public bathroom, a cafe in an old train, and an array of restaurants and shops. Below in the pin for the parking area. 

Goseong Unification View Tower, 강원 고성군 현내면 통일전망대로 457, http://naver.me/xbBPjB1b

Hiking up to the Observation Tower 

Again, what I was expecting was completely off. Instead of just showing up at a tower, which I expected to be guarded, I arrived at a coastal park with hiking trails and picturesque viewpoints. You can walk up a steep, paved hill or take a short hike through a pine forest. The observation tower has multiple decks. You can take the elevator (free) or the stairs to get the highest point. Inside, you’ll find a relaxed atmosphere of domestic tourists taking photos with the North Korean coastline and mountains behind them. 

Much of the route is exposed to the sun, so you’ll want sunscreen or a hat. It took about 30 minutes to hike up and see the views. On the way back, you can go straight down, or you can explore other parts of the park. I wandered off to see Buddhist and Christian statues and some additional viewpoints. Back in the parking lot, a Korean War exhibit rumbled and made sounds of gunfire, beckoning visitors to take a look. Because I was short on time, I headed straight to the DMZ Museum, but I would definitely go back and check that out next time. 

Visiting the DMZ Museum & Outdoor Art Gallery 

The DMZ Museum was the biggest surprise of this already surprising trip. Entry was free, and the museum was full of sights, sounds, and lights that evoked the Korean War era. The collection of news media and found objects was phenomenal. I could have stayed for hours, but I made the mistake of showing up an hour before closing. Exhibits were not too scary or gory for children, but kids who are old enough to read and to understand historical context will appreciate it more than younger children. It was really a place where I wanted to stop and read all the captions. 

The museum also included an exhibit on German reunification and a large section of the Berlin Wall. Outdoors, extensive gardens and walking paths feature art focused on the North & South Korea split and the  hope of reunification. 

DMZ Museum, 강원 고성군 현내면 통일전망대로 369, http://naver.me/xIxNHZEj

Crossing the Civilian Control Line 

When you leave, you’ll stop briefly to turn in your brightly colored paper and your access permit. You’ll drive your car through some decontaminating mist and over a water solution, which I assume is to prevent bringing any biological agents with you into South Korea. Other than the quick stop for the permits and the mystery mist, visiting the Goseong DMZ is like visiting any other park in South Korea. It’s well-organized, well-maintained, and you always have access to toilets and coffee!